Patagonia - a trip of a lifetime

In February, after weighing numerous options for a trip-of-a-lifetime backpacking experience, Andy and I decided to head just 1000 miles north of Antarctica: Patagonia (Southern Chile and Argentina). We decided when we weren't backpacking, we would stay at hostels because we had heard that it is fun and a great way to meet people, cook meals using communal kitchens, and most include breakfast and are cheap ($10-20 per person per night).  Each day we hiked, we thought we had seen the most beautiful thing imaginable and then we would get blown away the next day.  It was stunning!!!

Total travel time: 33 hours each way

Where we went, what it's like, what we did:

Puerto Natales, Chile
    Very walkable town with TONS of backpackers
    Lots of shops and restaurants: recommend Rustika and the fruit & nut shop
    Enjoyable waterfront walk with a yummy "real" coffee shop (most places use instant coffee, but not here)

    Stayed at: Erratic Rock Hostel, Hostal Shakana, and Hostal Kaluve (this is the city buses come in and out of between Chile and Argentina so we came through this city multiple times)

Torres Del Paine National Park, Chile
The "W" hike typically takes 4 nights, 5 days but we decided to shave one day off of it.     

Day One:
       Catamaran ride across Lake Pehoe
       Day hike to Glacier Grey and back to Campamento Paine Grande

     Day Two:

         Hiked to Campamento Italiano, ditched our packs       

         Day hiked up Valle de Frances and back       

         Picked up our packs and hiked to Campamento Cuervo   

  

 Day Three:

     Hiked to Campamento Chileno and stayed put due to rain

     Day Four:

            Up at 3:45am to day hike to Los Torres to watch sunrise       

            Tore down camp and hiked out of the park       

            Bused back to Punta ArenasTotal hiking mileage at TDP: 53 miles

El Calafate, Argentina
    Parque Nacional de Los Glaciares, Argentina (Perito Mereno Glacier)
    Walked the neat pathways to various views of the glacier    
    Took boat out to the base of the glacier and watched chunks of ice fall off into the water

El Chalten, Argentina
    A neat town created in the 1980s specifically for hikers and backpackers
    The town is the trailhead for  climbing up to Mt Fitz Roy
    Recommend: La Senyera Concina Argentina (great Bife de Chorizo)

    Stayed at: the hostel straight ahead if you walk from the bus station toward downtown 
    (we didn't take a pic of it or write the name down)

Fitz Roy:
This famous peak is actually the logo for the Patagonia clothing company

Punta Arenas, Chile
     Awesome old city with many 100+ year old gorgeous buildings
     This city was a major port city before the Panama Canal was built
     Sola Expediciones excursion through the Straight of Magellan to an island with penguins
     Taxi ride to airport

     Stayed at: Hostal Patagonia and were able to store our packs there until 3pm

The views from our airplane rides into and out of Patagonia were phenomenal!!  Seeing the ice fields, high elevation beautifully blue lakes, glaciers, the ocean, and the mountains was breathtaking!

Recommended foods to try: 

Chile: corn pie (pastel de choclo), any pastries with manjar (dulce de leche) 
Argentina: Submarinos (hot chocolate), mate (tea experience), steak (bife de chorizo)
 
Wildlife: Guanaco, Caracas, Nandu, Flamingo, Swans and ducks, Sheep, Penguins, stray dogs, lots of birds

What we wish we would have known:
When you go through customs in Chile, you first have to go to this small not-well-marked line in the corner to pay your visa entrance before getting in the customs line
In traveling by bus between this area of Chile and Argentina, you have to go through Puerto Natales.  This means you will likely spend a considerable amount of time in the town due to bus schedules.
Travel agents in Puerto Natales cost no extra money for their services (I worried about how much extra it would cost, only to find it didn't).  They are very knowledgeable and can help you layout your itinerary to maximize your time and coordinate us schedules.  We recommend Carla Alcayaga from Astral Glacier in Puerto Natales.
There are plenty of hostels...everywhere!!
You can change your bus ticket times up to three times at no extra charge (as long as there is space on the bus)
Buses have fewer routes on Sundays
Due to the likelihood of rain, bring lots of dry sacks and/or plastic baggies to keep gear dry
The sun is very powerful there. - I got sun poisoning

What we are glad we knew in Advance:
Speaking Spanish is very helpful
Buying visas to Argentina prior to leaving is important
Attending the 3pm town meeting held at Base Camp in Puerto Natales is very worthwhile
Perito Mereno is a must see
It's worth going to both sides of the Andes mountains (Chile and Argentina)
Going in January, February or March allows for a higher likelihood of good weather
Backpacking gear is everywhere if you need to rent or buy anything
There are designated areas in the Torres Del Paine Park where hikers must sleep and eat
No water treatment is needed in Patagonia.  You can drink like a dog :)
You don't have to reserve tent camp sites at TDP, but most sites cost money
Be sure to bring extra money into the park in case you have to pay for more campsites than you think
Be in shape (I was so thankful that I trained for and ran a half marathon right before)
Getting some Argentine pesos when you're in Chile is a good idea but most money should be exchanged in Argentina because you will get a better rate for it (We exchanged US dollars for a Argentine pesos with our hostel owner)
Weather is completely unpredictable, so bring clothing for varying temperatures

That's the summary of our unforgettable experience!!!!